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One found with joy that the south Indian blend podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

400g waxy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two garlic pieces, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a sizable container with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the components on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.