The Holiday Tree Lighting Illuminates for the First Time After the Start of the Gaza War

For two years amid the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.

However, following a recent truce, this sacred city decided that now celebrations would make a comeback, as symbolised by the lighting of its traditional, giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.

"We have endured a bad two years without celebration; no Christmas, no employment, no work," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."

He acknowledges that the decision of resuming celebrations was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – which affects those in its tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I felt that this was the correct action to take since Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Festivity Returns

Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.

Vibrant lights now adorn the streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This place is where everything began, so this is where we can send the message globally of what Christmas truly should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a positive message for the entire world."

Economic Prospects and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate holiday trees soon. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for two years – have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she says.

"I hope many visitors will return soon as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is that there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours at least."

For now, the souvenir stores dotted around Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, guides largely stand idle. Before the conflict, it was typically packed with visitors.

"This is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We aspire to have people returning as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin America and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."

The Lingering Economic Impact

Over the last two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements to work.

At the same time, government employees have been paid just a portion of their salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA depends on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – amounting to $1.76 billion, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state it is holding these funds due to the fact that the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to make reforms – says it has recently changed its social welfare system.

An Austere Christmas Season

The bleak economic situation means that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events in addition to religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.

On the periphery of the square, a few customers wait to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.

"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes that recently many families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional snack.

"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or whatever, he doesn't have the money to expend for this celebration."

Hopes for Peace and Prosperity

In the cave-like grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a local woman accompanies a tour group from India, stooping down by a silver star that indicates the spot where it is said Jesus was born and lighting a candle close by.

With tensions still high throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for tranquility – and hoping for tourists to come back to the place which is thought to be Christmas began.

John Johnson
John Johnson

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